Thunderbird
Mt Jefferson
The
Chemeketans
Sharing A Common Interest
In Outdoor Activities

Selected Peak and Route Lists

The purpose of the following selected peak and route lists is to inspire members to increase their skills, to create a framework that encourages networking amongst climbers and to increase climbing opportunities for club members. 

EMBLEM RECOGNITION:

Once a climber has completed a particular climb list, he/she may apply to the Climbing Committee Chairperson for emblem recognition.  Emblem recognition consists of listing the names of individuals who achieve a particular climb list on the Chemeketan Climbing Web Page, recognizing the individual at the annual Climbers Potluck and the ability of the individual to purchase emblem merchandise.  The Climbing Committee Chairperson(s) shall determine if an individual has achieved the emblem by considering acceptable proof submitted by the applicant of having completed the particular climb list according to the rules stipulated herein.  The Climbing Committee will determine the emblem merchandise that is available to recognize a specific climb list.  The Climbing Committee may modify existing, add new or eliminate lists or climbs from any list as it deems appropriate.  In order to qualify for one of the following list of emblems, the person requesting the emblem must be a club member at the time of the climb, must complete all the climbs, follow the rules stipulated for the list and at least 80% of the climbs on the list shall be completed with at least one other person who was a club member at the time of the climb.   

Climbs of routes that were completed before the route was added to an emblem list or climbs of routes that were achieved before a list was established shall count towards the achievement of the emblem regardless of the membership status at the time of the climb in order to not penalize the achievements of climbers or require repeat climbs since to do so is excessively time consuming.    Climbs of routes that occur after the emblem list is established or the route is added to the list shall otherwise meet the club membership and other requirements. 

SELECTED CLIMB LISTS: 

Non-Volcanic Washington Peaks above 9,000 ft
West Coast Fourteener’s
Oregon Alpine Scrambles
Northwest Snow Riding Descents
NW Alpine Mixed Routes I
NW Alpine Mixed Routes II
NW Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock I
NW Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock II
NW Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock III
NW Technical Snow/Ice Routes I
NW Technical Snow/Ice Routes II
NW Technical Snow/Ice Routes III 

DISCLAIMER

Mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, skiing, snowboarding etc. are hazardous activities.  Engaging in these activities may result in severe injury or death and should only be undertaken with a full understanding of all inherent risks.  The climb list emblems are given solely to recognize achievement.  The listing of a peak or route with supporting information is a composite of opinion from many sources, some of which may not be accurate and does not necessarily reflect the circumstances of a particular climb on a given day.  It is solely up to each individual to determine where and when to climb in order to do so safely.  Some of the peaks and routes listed are not suitable for club led trips due to the obvious liability risk.  However many competent climbers have safely completed these routes so private trips in many cases are more appropriate than a club trip.  The Chemeketans recommend that climbers utilize all available resources for information and obtain the required experience and exercise the good judgment necessary for the safety of each climb.   

SELECTED CLIMB LIST DESCRIPTIONS 

Non Volcanic Washington Peaks above 9,000 ft.
These ten peaks are the big daddies of the North Cascades in Washington State.  A good measure of skill and desire is required to do this list.   

1. Jack Mountain
2. Mt. Shucksan
3. Mt. Buckner
4. Mt. Maude
5. Mt. Goode
6. Mt. Fernow
7. Seven Fingered Jack
8. Bonanza Peak
9. Mt. Logan
10. Mt. Stuart 

Oregon Alpine Scrambles
These fourteen peaks are easy to moderate scrambles that offer quality outdoor experiences in a variety of locations throughout Oregon. Good physical fitness and general mountaineering skills are needed.  

Wallowas: Chief Joseph Mnt., Mt., Ruby Peak, Needle Point, Red Mountain and Matterhorn Mountain; Van Patten Butte (Elkhorn Mnts), Gearhart Mnt., Mt. Harriman (Mt Lakes Wilderness), Crater Lake Rim: Applegate Peak and Hillman Peak; Mt. McLaughlin, Mt. Bailey, Diamond Peak, Strawberry Mnt..

West Coast Fourteener’s
These sixteen peaks are the only mountains on the west coast that exceed 14,000 feet in elevation.  The difficulty of these peaks varies considerably from scrambles to technical routes.  A good deal of skill, desire and perseverance is required to complete this list.   

1. Mt. Rainier
2. Mt. Shasta
3. Thunderbolt Peak
4. Starlight Peak
5. North Palisade Peak
6. Polemonium Peak
7. Mt. Sill
8. Middle Palisade
9. Split Mountain
10. Mt. Tyndall
11. Mt. Williamson
12. Mt. Russell
13. Mt. Whitney
14. Mt. Muir
15. Mt. Langley
16. White Mountain.
 

Northwest Snow Riding Descents
These fifteen peaks provide quality backcountry snow riding descents.   They afford the opportunity to combine climbing skills for the ascent and skiing or snowboarding skills for the descent.  This list requires one to summit the peak, then complete the descent wholly on skis or snowboard.  The descent must begin at the summit except where noted. 

1. Mt. Lassen
2. Mt. Shasta (from or above the top of Red Banks or West Face)
3. Mt. McLaughlin, Brown Mountain
4. Pelican Butte
5. Mt. Scott
6. Mt. Bailey
7. Diamond Peak
8. Mt. Bachelor
9. South Sister
10. Middle Sister
11. Mt. Hood (from or above the Hogsback)
12. Mt. St. Helens
13. Mt. Adams (from top of false summit)
14. Mt. Rainier (from or above Camp Muir). 

Northwest Alpine Mixed Routes I
These twelve easy to moderate climbs may require a rope due to glaciers and some belaying in sections may be necessary due to the exposure although the difficulties are typically limited.  These climbs require good overall general mountaineering judgment and skills although highly developed technical skills are less important.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. The Brothers, WA (Olympics) – South Couloir, II, class 4
2. Mt. Washington, WA (Olympics) – any route, (easiest) I, class 3
3. Mt. Anderson, WA (Olympics) – Flypaper Pass, I, class 3
4. Colchuck Peak, WA – Colchuck Glacier, II, class 3
5. Del Campo Peak, WA – South Gully, II, class 3
6. Sloan Peak, WA – Corkscrew route, II, class 3
7. Sahale Peak, WA – South route, II, class 3
8. Eldorado Peak, WA – Eldorado Glacier, II, class 2
9. Hidden Lake Peak, WA – North Ridge, II, class 2
10. Black Peak, WA – South Ridge, II, class 3
11. Silver Star Mountain, WA - Silver Star Glacier, II, class 3
12. Tomyhoi Peak, WAEast Ridge, II, class 3 

Northwest Alpine Mixed Routes II
These five more difficult climbs may require a rope due to glaciers and some belaying in sections may be necessary depending upon the skill and judgment of the climber.  These climbs require an increase in mountaineering judgment and skills for success.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Constance, WA – North or South Chute, II, class 3
2. Mt. Daniel, Southeast Ridge, III, class 3
3. Dome Peak, WA- Dome Glacier, II, class 3
4. Snowfield Peak, WA – Neve Glacier, II, class 4
5. Mt. Shuksan, WA – Fisher Chimney, III, class 4 

Northwest Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock I
These five fun multi-pitch alpine rock climbs require a relatively low level of commitment, are a limited number of pitches and are technically moderate.  These climbs are great for aspiring technical alpine rock climbers.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt Cruiser, WA – South Corner, II, 5.4
2. The Tooth, WA – South Face, II, 5.4
3. Ingalls Peak, WA – South or East Ridge, II, 5.6 or 5.7
4. Black Peak, WA – Northeast Ridge, II, 5.4
5. South Early Winter Spire, WA – South Ridge II, 5.5 

Northwest Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock II
These thirteen climbs are an increase in difficulty due to the alpine character, overall commitment, number of pitches, mixed terrain and/or technical difficulties that may be encountered.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Hubris, CA – (Cosmic Wall), III, 5.6
2. Mt. Washington, OR – West Ridge II, 5.8
3. Vesper Peak, WA – North Face, III, 5.6
4. Prussik Peak, WA – West Ridge, II, 5.7
5. Mt. Stuart,WA – West Ridge, III, 5.6
6. Sherpa Peak, WA – West Ridge, II, 5.6
7. Forbidden Peak,WA – West Ridge, III, 5.4
8. Mt Triumph,WA – Northeast Ridge III, 5.6
9. Cutthroat Peak, WA - West Ridge, II, 5.6
10. Liberty Bell, WABecky Route II, 5.7
11. Lexington Tower, WA – North Face, II, 5.6
12. Concord Tower,WA – North Face, II, 5.6
13. Chablis Spire, WA – East Face, II, 5.6 

Northwest Alpine Multi-Pitch Rock III
These five climbs are either a significant step up technically or the overall commitment is more substantial.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Stuart – North Ridge, III, 5.7
2. Dragontail Peak- Serpentine Arete, IV, 5.8
3. Mt. Goode – Northeast Buttress, IV, 5.5
4. South Early Winter Spire – Southwest Buttress, III, 5.8
5. Cuthroat Peak, WA – South Ridge, III, 5.8 

Northwest Technical Snow/Ice Routes I
These nine routes require an increase in skills above standard routes. This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Shasta, CA - Casaval Ridge, III, class 3
2. North Sister, OR – Early Morning Couloir, II class 3
3. Mt. Jefferson, OR – East Face, II class 4
4. Mt. Hood, OR - Leuthold Couloir, II, class 4
5. Mt. Hood, OR - Cooper Spur, II, Class 3
6. Mt. Hood, OR - Wy’East, II, class 4
7. Mt. Rainier, WA –Kautz Glacier, III, class 3
8. Mt. Raineer, WA – Fuhrer’s Finger, II, class 4
9. Glacier Peak, WA - Frostbite Ridge, II, class 4 

Northwest Technical Snow/Ice Routes II
These six routes are an increase in technical difficulty, overall challenge or commitment.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Shasta, CA – Hotlam/Bolan Glacier, III, class 3
2. Mt. Jefferson, OR – Jeff Park Glacier, III, class 4
3. Mt. Hood, OR – Sandy Glacier Headwall, III, class 4
4. Mt. Adams, WA – Adams Glacier, III, class 4
5. Mt. Maude, WA – North Face, III, class 4
6. Mt. Baker, WA – North Ridge, III class 5 

Northwest Technical Snow/Ice Routes III
These three challenging routes are an increase in technical difficulty and commitment.  Often, these routes are done as a carry over which increases the difficulty and commitment.  This emblem requires climbing the listed route. 

1. Mt. Raineer, WA – Liberty Ridge, V, class 4
2. Mt. Buckner, WA – North Face, IV, class 4
3. Mt. Shucksan, WA - North Face, IV, class 4

 

Activity information is provided to members in The Chemeketan our monthly bulletin. To receive a complimentary two-month subscription to The Chemeketan and for more information about membership, contact the Membership Secretary.

revised 2008 December 19