Mt Maude (9082’) – south ridge and North Spectacle Butte (8080’) - west ridge
late September, 3 days. The exact dates will be determined later in the climb season depending on other scheduled climbs.
Both peaks are in the Glacier Peak wilderness and situated in the Entiat range west of Lake Chelan. They should be great fall climbs, especially if the larches are beginning to change color. Access is from the Chiwawa River road with the trailhead at Phelps Creek (3500’), about 3 hours from Seattle. The approach to a proposed Ice Lakes camp (7000’) is long and involves some crosscountry travel to be able to camp close enough to attempt both summits from a common camp. Maude’s south ridge is a class 2 (almost a walk-up) as is the west ridge of North Spectacle. I have climbed Maude numerous times via various routes and also South Spectacle Butte, but have not attempted N Spectacle Butte. Though trekking poles are advised, no technical gear is required unless we might get some early snow.
While I have been in to the Entiat area numerous times over the years, I have only been to Ice Lakes twice and, alas, the shortest/most efficient way to access them will involve either considerable off trail travel or a longer, more circuitous trail approach via the Leroy Creek basin. My strong preference is to use the Carne Mt high route on the approach and exit via Leroy creek basin to make a loop trip.
Map link:
https://mappingsupport.com/p2/gissurfer.php?center=48.124442,-120.783949&zoom=14&basemap=ESRI_scanned_topo_USA