Sloan Peak (7835’) - Corkscrew Route (M2)
When: July 9-12 (Thurs - Sun), 2020 (2-day climb)
Provisional Leader: Shonee Langford
Observing Leader: Bill Saur
Elevation Gain: ~5900 feet
Distance: ~12 miles round trip
Team Size: 6-8 (TBD based on applicant pool)
Sloan peak from the north
Sloan Peak is located southwest of Glacier peak and is a classic mixed climb introduction to the North Cascades. It features a ford of the North Fork Sauk river, rugged approach trail, the Sloan glacier ascent, and a class 3 summit scramble, all to grand views of the Monte Cristo range and Glacier peak itself.
Located 2-1/2 hours from Seattle, the trailhead is at 1900’ along the N Fork Sauk River road and, after a ford of the river, the trail climbs along Cougar creek to a camp (~ 4-1/2 miles to 5300’) on the ridge below the glacier. The climb route is up the glacier on its northern and western fringes, then following the goat path along the south side of the peak and scrambling its SW gully to the summit.
Gear: ice axe, helmet, crampons, rope, harness, etc. Our observing leader, Bill Saur, has summited this peak twice.
This is a strenuous climb that requires good physical fitness. Prior climbing experience should include overnight trips with rugged approaches, glacier climbing, and unroped Class 3 scrambling.
To be considered, contact me (Shonee Langford) at shoneelangford@gmail.com. If we have not done a similar climb together, please describe your relevant climbing experience and your routine for staying physically fit and preparing for this climb.
Applicants need to be available to travel and climb during the entire period of July 9-12. The climb itself is two days in duration and we’ll choose the best two days weatherwise to ensure success. Do not hesitate to contact me with any questions.