Skip to main content

Climbers

Mount Olympus trip report
Author Last Post

My first successful Oly summits were in the late 80's/mid 90's and prior to the washout. Near the present area of the sand ladders, there was a narrow trail cut into the hillside with a steep drop-off into the creek bed. On one of those early climbs there was the carcass/remains of a mule which had fallen from the trail and come to a halt amid the brush well down the slope. 

For those who haven't perused the pics more closely, here's a video of negotiating the ladders from a few years ago -  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irc0CvJj5io&start=45    Note that he actually had auxiliary rope to use as a fixed line! It doesn't look like you kids had the advantage of those. After the washout had occurred, I suspect that the NPS perhaps felt that Glacier Meadows may have been becoming too popular, and the installation of the sand ladders was intended to act somewhat as a deterrent for minimally prepared hikers/backpackers. Climbers are kinda cray- cray anyway and would take it in stride.


On 7/2/2024 6:09 PM, Christopher Leesman wrote:
Bill et al, 

I was certainly excited we were able to ascend the direct route. Overall, it was a beautiful experience going through so much varied terrain, except for the lateral moraine. Kind of an insult towards the latter part of a long day. Indeed it was pretty crappy, but a "trail" has started to develop from so many going along the route by this time which perhaps has reduced a little of the scree/talus movement. I found the ladder to be not bad at all as it was replaced at some point in the last few years. 

Interesting to hear the washout above Glacier Meadows occurred 30 years ago! Thanks for that context, Bill. 

Thanks again and big shout out to an amazing team. Michael, Shonee, and Mason did an excellent job of planning this out. I was glad to be the recipient of their work upfront.  Michael - appreciated your memorable write up! 

Chris

The 2018 trip Bill referred to was during the eclipse. The three of us were the only party on the mountain. The moraine was treacherous but it was mid-August so that may have been a factor. We did the 5.4 north ridge. A nice little route.

 

Comrade Gurley,

You have fallen prey to Stockholm Syndrome. There is no cure when the Chemeketans are involved; you will have to be eliminated. Your skill at playing the part of an Old Man will perfectly explain your disappearance.



Bill et al, 

I was certainly excited we were able to ascend the direct route. Overall, it was a beautiful experience going through so much varied terrain, except for the lateral moraine. Kind of an insult towards the latter part of a long day. Indeed it was pretty crappy, but a "trail" has started to develop from so many going along the route by this time which perhaps has reduced a little of the scree/talus movement. I found the ladder to be not bad at all as it was replaced at some point in the last few years. 

Interesting to hear the washout above Glacier Meadows occurred 30 years ago! Thanks for that context, Bill. 

Thanks again and big shout out to an amazing team. Michael, Shonee, and Mason did an excellent job of planning this out. I was glad to be the recipient of their work upfront.  Michael - appreciated your memorable write up! 

Chris

Fortunately they replaced the ladder below Glacier Meadows in 2021. It was in pretty good shape. And we were pleasantly surprised to find a decent path (albeit a bit steep and loose) from the top of the moraine down to the glacier. Nothing worse than any number of scree routes in the Oregon Cascades. In other words we really lucked out. 

Excellent work by all, especially as you had no prior experience on the peak! You appear to have had glorious weather and conditions, and a good team. Nice that the more direct (4th of July) route from the Snow Dome was open; from the pics, one can see where the bergschrund is forming and starting to open. The times I've summited have occurred later in the year, and we've always had to take the more circuitous Crystal pass/Five Fingers route. The snow pack actually looked quite good from the photos near the summit block.

You (Michael) indicated the descent from the lateral moraine to the glacier wasn't too problematic?  When last there with Garry and Milan (admittedly ~ 6 years ago), it was horrible - with loose rubble, scree and granular dirt. The descent, and later return ascent, of the moraine was the worst part of our trip. It's also disconcerting that the park service has seemingly still (after ~ 30 years) not replaced the sand ladders with a more permanent trail fix/route option as one enters Glacier Meadows.

Mt Olympus remains a worthy and memorable climb. You work for it and climb the whole mountain, from the lowlands and rain forest along the Hoh, across the glaciers to its rocky summit block. Kudos to all!

And here's a link to our group photo album for Olympus: https://photos.app.goo.gl/iS8bQGBG1WSBFKPR8


Shonee


Quoted Text

A 3-day trip of 10 hearty Chemeketans through the Hoh rainforest of the Olympic Peninsula.


Elevation: 7,980’

Route: Blue Glacier/ Fourth of July

Gain: ~9,700’   Miles: 44

Trip Date: June 20-22, 2024

Team: Shonee Langford (co-leader), Mason Smith (co-leader), Michael Gurley (co-leader), Patrick Riley (assistant), Elise Willey, Chris Leesman, Laurie Muhlbauer, Jedrzej (Andrew) Solecki, Geoff Barstow, Gregory Adelman

A 3-day trip of 10 hearty Chemeketans through the Hoh rainforest of the Olympic Peninsula.

Elevation: 7,980’

Route: Blue Glacier/ Fourth of July

Gain: ~9,700’   Miles: 44

Trip Date: June 20-22, 2024

Team: Shonee Langford (co-leader), Mason Smith (co-leader), Michael Gurley (co-leader), Patrick Riley (assistant), Elise Willey, Chris Leesman, Laurie Muhlbauer, Jedrzej (Andrew) Solecki, Geoff Barstow, Gregory Adelman

Return to Forum