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Mt Stuart West Ridge (R3) - Climb Full

About this event

This 2-day climb will ascend the West Ridge of Mount Stuart and descend the Cascadian Couloir. The route involves sustained and sometimes exposed scrambling, technical rock climbing up to 5.6, and route-finding challenges. It is also notorious for unplanned bivouacs. We will climb the technical pitches in teams of 2.

Applicants must meet the requirements described below and must be able to drive to the trailhead as early as the afternoon/eve of Weds, Sept 11 and must be available to climb any two days from Thursday, Sept 12 through Sunday, Sept 15.

I will accept applications until Sunday, August 18th, and will select team members by end of day Monday, August 19th.

Elevation Gain: 6700' 

The following experience and skills are required:
-Efficient movement on exposed 3rd class terrain (un-roped)
-Strength/endurance for a 16-20 hour day
-Multi-pitch trad climbing (as leader or follower)
-Ability to scramble and climb up to 5.6 with a 20-30 pound overnight pack
-Overnight climbing/backpacking experience

We will begin at the Esmerelda Basin/Ingalls Lake trailhead and approach the West Ridge via Lake Ingalls.

I do not have a prospectus. See the links below for detailed route descriptions. Wilderness permits are free and self-issue at trailhead. A NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass is required to park at the trailhead.

A gear list will be provided prior to the climb. I will bring club ropes, anchor material, and a small trad rack.

Beta Links: 
The Mountaineers (scroll to see trip reports)
Rock n' Rope Northwest 
Climber Kyle 
Cluck on Cascade Climbers 

Difficulty: R3
This rating means you have successfully completed the Chemeketans Climb School, successfully completed a Chemeketans climb of the same category (rock), and have demonstrated climbing skill and judgment appropriate for the specific route under consideration. The individual climb leader will determine the level of climbing skill and judgment required for the route, and the eligibility of a climber to participate in the climb.

Driving Distance RT: 640 miles to/from Salem

Apply or send questions to the leader (Shonee Langford) at shoneelangford@gmail.com 

Date and Time

Wednesday, September 11, 2024, to Sunday, September 15, 2024

Location

OR  
USA

Climb Leader(s)

Shonee Langford

Category

Climbing

Registration Info

Registration is not available online - contact the event coordinator
The Trip Leader is the event coordinator. The Trip Leader has the final say over who may participate in the event.