Mt Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier M2
Mt Shuksan is centrally located in the North Cascades, and offers a true alpine experience. The Sulphide Glacier Route is the most popular route to the summit. From the Shannon Creek trailhead we will hike through old growth forest gaining the ridge crest around 4600’. Around 5400’ we will be above treelike and eventually to our camp at the toe of the Sulphide Glacier (~6000’). The next morning we will navigate up the Sulphide Glacier in rope teams to the summit pyramid and scramble up the 3rd/4th class gullies to the top. We will descend the summit block via a series of rappels and then rope up again to cross the glacier back to camp. We will awake on day 3, pack up, and hike out. I have a contingency day built in in case we need to wait out weather or enter a day later.
CONTINGENCY: As time approaches, I may consider shifting a day (Sun-Tue or Mon-Wed) if it means hitting a better weather window. Anyone who applies should plan on some level of flexibility.
APPLYING: Email me to apply. I will assess the applicants and pick the best team of climbers and assistants. When emailing to express interest and to be put on the list of prospective climbers, please include a climb resume and any relevant references.
PROSPECTUS: A detailed trip prospectus is being developed and will be provided to all interested persons when it becomes available. For now, please use the following summary to assess your interest and/or compatibility for this climb.
Time: 3 days
Driving Distance: 358 miles (one way)
Hiking Distance: ~ 16 miles RT
Elevation Gain: approx 6500 ft
Team Size: 8 max
Required Skills: Comfort climbing 3rd/4th class rock and steep snow unroped, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, traveling on running belays, rappelling, excellent fitness and fortitude for a LONG summit day.
Sun: Early departure from Salem, hike into camp at ~6000'.
Mon: Early start to get to summit and back (expect a LONG day).
Tue: Depart camp back to car and drive home.
GOOD LINKS:
Mountaineers: https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/north-cascades-national-park-cross-country-zones/high-occupancy-xc-zones/mount-shuksan-sulphide-glacier
SummitPost: https://www.summitpost.org/sulphide-glacier/155524