Sloan Peak (7835’) - Corkscrew Route (M2)
When: July 12-14, 2025 (2-day climb)
Leader: Shonee Langford
Assistants: Theresa Conley and Laurie Muhlbauer
Elevation Gain: ~5900 feet
Distance: ~12 miles round trip
Team Size: 6-8 (TBD based on applicant pool)
Sloan Peak from the North
Sloan Peak is located southwest of Glacier peak and is a classic mixed climb introduction to North Cascades-style mountaineering. It features a ford of the North Fork Sauk river, rugged approach trail, the Sloan glacier ascent, and a class 3 summit scramble, all to grand views of the Monte Cristo range and Glacier peak itself. Located 2-1/2 hours from Seattle, the trailhead is at 1900’ along the N Fork Sauk River road and, after a ford of the river, the trail climbs along Cougar creek to a camp (~ 4-1/2 miles to 5300’) on the ridge below the glacier. The climb route is up the glacier on its northern and western fringes, then following the goat path along the south side of the peak and scrambling its SW gully to the summit. Gear: ice axe, helmet, crampons, rope, harness, etc.
This is a strenuous climb that requires good physical fitness. Prior climbing experience should include overnight trips with rugged approaches, glacier climbing, and unroped Class 3 scrambling. Fording the North Fork Sauk is sometimes the crux of this route. If you aren't comfortable crossing swift current or crossing on logs that may be skinny and/or wet, this may not be the climb for you.
Applicants need to be available for an early morning start on Day 1. That means traveling the afternoon or eve of Friday, July 11, if we start on Saturday the 12th. As always, our start date will depend in large part on weather. This climb can be done in one long day, 2 days (standard) or 3 days (luxurious). Successful applicants will be capable of doing it in one long day, but we will take 2-3 days if conditions allow.
To be considered, contact me (Shonee Langford) at shoneelangford@gmail.com. If we have not done a similar climb together, please describe your relevant climbing experience and your routine for staying physically fit and preparing for this climb. I will accept applications through Friday, May 30th, and will announce a team by Monday, June 2nd.