Mt Jefferson/ South Ridge (M2+)
About this event
Mt Jefferson 10,502'
Dates: May 15-18 (or backup dates of June 12-15)
Route: South Ridge
Elevation Gain: ~7400'
Distance: ~21 miles
Max Team Size: 6
Difficulty: M2+
Driving Distance RT: ~140 miles RT from Salem
Preference will be given to current assistant climb leaders and candidates who formally expressed interest in becoming one (by letter to the Climbing Co-Chairs) prior to the posting of this climb. Others are welcome to apply.
Description:
There are no easy routes to the top of Mt Jefferson. This three-day climb will take place within the designated primary or backup windows and will begin/end at the Pamelia Lake Trailhead (3100'). A four-day window for a three-day climb allows for weather flexibility. Given the relatively low snowpack this winter, and the likelihood of an early melt off, we are aiming to climb this route sooner than usual. We will watch for beta as early-season trip reports come in. If conditions are too gnarly for a May attempt, we'll go on the June backup dates.
On Day 1, we'll backpack into the Coyote Lake/ Shale Lakes area and set up base camp. Or, depending on conditions, we may continue to a higher base camp on snow to get a head start on Day 2 (summit day). The approach to the lakes should be mostly, if not completely, snow free.
On Day 2, we’ll make an alpine start at a time to be determined based on camp location, conditions and estimated travel time (likely 12:00am-ish). Be prepared to spend 8-12 hours or more on the mountain. Just below the summit, at the Red Saddle, we’ll rope up and cross a steep traverse via running belay with pickets. We’ll remain roped up as we circle around to the north side of the summit block, where we will ascend a mixture of steep snow/ice and 4th to low 5th class rock to the summit. Conditions and team comfort levels will dictate our strategy for ascending and descending the summit block. Be prepared for anything from unprotected soloing in ideal conditions to a running belay or fixed line, with descent via rappel or protected downclimbing. We will then retrace our steps across the steep traverse, again via running belay. From there we will make our way back down the South Ridge to base camp for some well-deserved rest.
The plan is to stay another night at camp, then break camp and hike out the morning of Day 3. We could consider breaking camp and hiking out on Day 2 if everyone feels strong or weather dictates, but don’t count on it.
Minimum Requirements/ Application Instructions:
- Applicant must be a graduate of Chemeketans Climb School and Intermediate Snow Skills
- Applicant must have successfully completed at least one steep snow climb with the Chemeketans and be recommended by the leader of that climb
- Applicant must be physically fit for a climb of this magnitude and up to speed on a variety of skills, including roped team travel, clipping through pickets, steep snow climbing/traversing with crampons and two tools, ascending a fixed line, and rappelling
- Preference will be given to applicants who are a current Chemeketans assistant climb leader or a candidate who has formally expressed interest in becoming one in response to an email from Climbing Co-Chair Chris Salaz to the general climbers group on Feb 4, 2026
- Preference will be given to applicants who are available for the entire 4-day primary window (May 15-18) and backup window (June 12-15) will be given preference
- To apply, send an email to the climb leader, Shonee Langford, at shoneelangford@gmail.com with a cc to assistant climb leader Jeff Easter at easterjeff5@gmail.com. Please address all of the above requirements.
Team Selection:
The leader will take applications through end of day on Thursday, April 23, and will let applicants know if they were selected or not by end of day on Monday, April 27.
Prospectus
Please review carefully.
Summit Post Links: Main Page and South Ridge Page
Reversing the traverse in July 2022
Registration Info
Registration is not available online - contact the event coordinator
The Trip Leader is the event coordinator. The Trip Leader has the final say over who may participate in the event.
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