Mount Shasta (Hotlum-Bolum Ridge)
I am forming a climbing team for a Mt Shasta ascent via the less crowded north face; the Hotlum-Bolum Ridge route on June 12-14. This is an alpine snow climb that requires reasonable fitness, sound judgment, and the ability to operate effectively as part of a team. Under excellent conditions it would receive a Chemeketan Climbing Classification of S1, though it may be upgraded to an S2 if this year’s climate results in icy conditions in any of the 3 snow gullies along the route.
Team Size/Composition
I am aiming to have a climb team of no more than 8 persons. This will include one (1) leader, one (1) or two (2) assistants, with the remainder being climbers. I will accept applications for approximately 3 weeks (see below for ways to increase your chances of being selected) and aim to make a decision on the team and alternates by May 12.
Prospectus
The link to the DRAFT prospectus is below. This will be modified and updated as climb gets closer.
Draft Shasta prospectus
Scheduling & Commitment
Due to the weather/condition variability of Mt Shasta, we will plan the climb around June 12-14, but will reserve the right to postpone to June 26-28 if the conditions warrant.
Minimum Requirements
Applicants should meet the following baseline:
Strong aerobic fitness (comfortable with 5–6 mile days carrying a loaded pack)
Experience with multi-day backpacking trips
Basic mountaineering skills, including:
Ice axe use (self-arrest)
Crampon travel
Snow travel on moderate glaciers and/or snowfields
Roped team glacier travel
Prior experience on at least one glaciated peak (e.g., Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, Mt. Baker, etc.)
Ability to carry 35–45 lbs over extended distances
Solid personal gear appropriate for glacier travel
Preferred / Competitive Experience
The following will strengthen your application:
Previous climbs involving rope team glacier travel
Experience with crevasse rescue systems
Prior climbs in remote or committing environments
Demonstrated ability to maintain pace and composure over long summit days (10–12 hours)
Participation in structured training (mountaineering, endurance, or strength programs)
Application Requirements (“Climbing Resume”)
To be considered, please submit a short climbing resume that includes:
Relevant climbs (routes, dates, conditions if notable)
Backpacking and endurance experience
Current fitness level and recent training (pack weight, mileage, vertical gain)
Mountaineering skills and any formal training courses
Gear overview (confirming you have required equipment)
A brief statement on why you want to join this climb and what you bring to the team
Keep it concise but specific—this helps me to assess more accurately.
Team Selection Criteria
Team members will be selected based on:
Fitness and endurance
Technical competency and safety awareness
Reliability and judgment in the mountains
Team mindset and communication
Preparation and attention to detail
This is not just about individual strength—we are building a team that moves efficiently and safely together.
Expectations
Selected climbers should be prepared to:
Participate in pre-climb coordination and planning
Show up fully prepared—physically, mentally, and logistically