Unicorn Peak
I am forming a climbing team for a Unicorn Peak ascent via the Snow Lake route on Friday, May 22. This is an alpine mixed (snow and rock) climb that requires reasonable fitness, sound judgment, and the ability to operate effectively as part of a team.
This is an appropriate (and fun!) climb for 1st year Chemeketan Climb School students that meet the Minimum Requirements listed below.
Link to draft prospectus. Will be updated as climb date gets closer: Prospectus (draft)
IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT!!!
This climb typically starts at the Snow Lake trailhead off of Stevens Canyon Road, which closes during the winter season. The road opening is not 100% definite. Historically it opens on the Memorial Day weekend, but that is not something that can be relied upon. If the road is still closed on May 22, this climb will still proceed, but it will involve the addition of 6 extra miles (roundtrip) of hiking on the closed (to vehicles) road to get to the Snow Lake Trailhead.
Team Size/Composition
I am aiming to have a climb team of no more than 8 persons. This will include one (1) leader, one (1) or two (2) assistants, with the remainder being climbers. I will accept applications up to and including Friday, May 15.
Scheduling & Commitment
Due to the weather/condition variability of the Mount Rainier region, we will plan the climb on May 22, but will reserve the right to cancel if the conditions warrant.
Minimum Requirements
Applicants should meet the following baseline:
Sound aerobic fitness (comfortable with 12 mile day carrying a moderate pack)
Basic mountaineering skills, including:
Ice axe use (self-arrest)
Crampon travel
Snow travel on moderately steep snowfields
Ascending on a fixed line with a prussik loop
Rappelling
Application Requirements (“Climbing Resume”)
To be considered, please submit a short climbing resume that includes:
Relevant climbs (routes, dates, conditions if notable)
Backpacking experience
Current fitness level
Mountaineering skills and any formal training courses
A brief statement on why you want to join this climb
Keep it concise but specific—this helps me to assess more accurately.
Expectations
Selected climbers should be prepared to:
Participate in pre-climb coordination and planning
Show up fully prepared—physically, mentally, and logistically
Be a cooperative, communicative, and considerate team member
Play nice with others!