Date: Saturday, May 7, 2023
Elevation: 11,239 ft/3,426 m
Leader: Scott Phillips
Assistant: Amy John
Climbers: Steve John, Britt Crawford, Tracy Bluhm, Justin Gomori, Greg Adelman
Link to pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nnHk7GST8NF6UiGn9
The day started with a down pour in Redmond when I started traveling up to Mt Hood. Not sure of the actual weather further north, I called Amy to try and talk me out of this climb. But I was talking to the wrong person for the job and she quickly spun it into a positive. So I continued the drive… By the time I reached Government Camp the rain settled down to a misty rain/snow mix and at Timberline day lodge, a flurry of snow. The winds were light and not that foggy. Plus the fact that the weather was supposed to improve throughout the day was encouraging. We got on the trail at 12:15am and would reassess at the top of the Palmer, taking it one step at a time.
As we did the South Side Slog up the climbers trail and with the darkness, snow/light fog and lack of sleep, we didn’t see the Silcox Hut to our left as we passed it. However, we did see the faint outline of the Steel Cliffs after some of the fog cleared and we actually saw some stars and the full moon for a while. We could also see the headlamps of other climbers making their way up the slopes.
At the top of the Palmer we bid farewell to Kaitlin Sommerfeld, our eighth team member. The lack of sleep and alpine start took it’s toll on her so she wished us a successful day and headed back down the mountain.
Normally, at the top of the Palmer, it’s windy and very cold while putting on the crampons. Today the winds were light so it didn’t make the cold bite in so deep. We continued and at the Devils Kitchen we roped up and proceeded to the Hogsback. Two tools in hand we had to use them in the upper section of the Hogsback, probably the last 40-50 feet. Not mandatory, but helpful. The traverse across to the Pearly gates was a little more than a boot width. Some people elected to side step the 60 feet or so but I found it easier and faster to walk it, placing a couple pickets along the way.
At the end of the traverse was a sharp left turn heading up into the left Pearly gate, with our progress being regulated by the teams above us. We spent about an hour waiting for other climbers to descend the hourglass shaped gate before it was our turn to move past the bottleneck. Luckily, it wasn’t too windy and cold for us.
We reached the summit after 8½ hours of climbing. Not really that bad for the waiting we had to do.
We dawdled a bit on top for a few pictures with no view and headed back down.
With no other climbers ascending, we had the gate to ourselves and made good time back to the Hogsback for some snacks and hydration.
The sun started to bust through the clouds and fog but didn’t seem to really make the snow too mushy for the glissade/hike down the mountain.
We made it back to our cars after 14:40 hours on the trail. A long day but well worth the effort.
This was a first Mt Hood ascent for Britt, Steve, Tracy, Greg and Justin, Congratulations.
Thanks to all of the team members for their efforts on a tough first climb on steep snow. Nobody was sketched out and just took it like champs.
Gear used: Two 50m ropes and seven pickets. Ice screws brought but not used. Two tools on the steep snow sections were required.
Submitted by Scott Phillips