A mixed-pod group of 12 climbers (8 of whom were 2023 Climb School graduates) shared an enjoyable ascent of the West Ridge of Mt. Thielsen on October 7, 2023. We were spoiled with amazing weather - sunny, clear skies, and a little breezy (but not too much). All 12 climbers drove down the day before, so we were able to start ahead of schedule, beginning the hike in at 6:40 AM. We made good time to the PCT junction, where some of us stashed water, and then continued up to Chicken Ledge, which we reached around 11:00 AM.
From there, the day slowed down a bit, as we waited for a party to ascend and then rappel the route we were planning to climb. Several of our climbers took advantage of the break to catch a cat nap in the sun while our fearless leaders made their game plan.
When it was our turn, Cathy made quick and easy work of the lead, and before we knew it, it was time for the group to ascend the fixed line up the summit block (with pauses for a trio of soloists sprinkled throughout). We had great, although hazy, views from the summit, and enjoyed some time at the top relaxing in the sunshine.
When it was time to rappel, Cathy and Ellen gave Kaitlin the chance to learn a new skill - rappelling with the rope attached to either side of her harness (saddlebags), rather than throwing the rope to the ground. It worked great, and Kaitlin was excited to try something new. Liz was also a supportive presence during this effort.
As the rest of the group rappelled (to the left of the climbing route), another party took a turn where we had ascended. It turned out that among this group were Greg Orton and his partner Harold Hall - local celebrities in the Southern Oregon climbing scene. Greg led effortlessly up a route he chose so as not to hinder our group, and Harold did not climb, but enjoyed the weather on the ledges with one of the children and two dogs which were part of their group. We learned who they were after the fact, when Cathy was hiking near Harold on the way down. The realization that we had been rappelling in the presence of these local legends was an exciting highlight of the day, especially for Ellen and Cathy, who were aware of their many contributions to Southern Oregon climbing (first ascents, development of the Honeycombs and other climbing areas, and education of many S. Oregon climbers).
After a break at the PCT junction to collect our stashed water, we continued to hike out at a brisk pace, and made it to the trailhead around 6:30 PM. At this point, the majority of the group headed over to the restaurant at the Diamond Lake Resort for a celebratory hot meal, before Kori and Liz headed home, and the rest of us returned to Diamond Lake Campground for the night. All in all it was an excellent day with a fun group. Special congratulations to the first time summiters of Thielsen, listed below.
First Thielsen Summit: Geoff Barstow, Jeff Easter, John Mandrafina, Olivia Ong, Tony Sprauer, and Kori Wanner
Full Team Roster: Liz Babbs, Geoff Barstow, John Conley, Jeff Easter, Ellen Gradison, Cathy Lazarus, John Mandrafina, Laurie Muhlbauer, Olivia Ong, Kaitlin Sommerfeld, Tony Sprauer, Kori Wanner
Leader: Ellen Gradison
Assistant: Cathy Lazarus
Report prepared by Kaitlin Sommerfeld.
Photos from both the Thielsen and Bailey climbs can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/sPHRnkofoQ8reZ4K9
