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Middle Sister, Hayden glacier, S1 (Climb full)

Middle Sister - Hayden Glacier,  S1

Date: Sunday & Monday, June 2-3

Leader: Bryon Snapp (Leader) Cell: (503) 507-8327

Assistant:  Frosty Gill

Proposed Route: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier & Prouty Point

Chemeketan Climb Classification: S1 (Snow/Level 1)

Elevation: 10,047 feet

Elevation Gain: ~ 4,750 feet

Hiking Distance: ~ 14.0 miles (round trip)

Driving distance: ~240 miles round trip.

 

Climb Description:

The Hayden glacier route is approached from the east side of the Sisters range. Sunday we’ll begin at the charred Pole Creek trailhead and hike south past North Sister. Eventually, we’ll find the “Climber’s Trail” junction where we’ll then head due west and rise above timberline and set our basecamp (~ 6000’) for the evening, possibly on snow. Snow conditions permitting, we will have running water within 100-yards, but be prepared to melt snow if necessary.


Early Monday morning, we’ll begin our hike to the Hayden Glacier where we might rope up as a team and gain the col located between Middle Sister to the south, and Prouty Point to the north. Once at the col, we’ll take a short break while a fixed-line is set (if necessary) on the steepest snow section on Middle Sister’s North shoulder. After climbing up the North shoulder, we’ll cruise to the summit as a team to hopefully enjoy the incredible views! Weather and time permitting, we’ll hang out; otherwise, we’ll quickly bail back to the col where we will take a few minutes to scramble to the top of Prouty Point (9,312’) before heading back down to our camp. Once back to camp, we’ll eat lunch and briskly break down our camp and return to Pole Creek.

Gear/equipment:

This will be a fun climb that requires basic rope management skills while traveling as a rope team on simple glaciated terrain. You will need the full complement of gear for glacier travel: ice ax, harness, helmet, crampons, carabiners, prusiks, etc..  A complete list of required climbing and camp equipment will be furnished as part of the climb prospectus.

 

Reference/Maps:

Oregon High, Jeff Thomas, page 100

https://www.summitpost.org/north-ridge-via-hayden-glacier/155622

Google Earth: UTM 10T 597219E, 4889036N

North Sister, Oregon, USGS 24K Quad Topo (7.5 min x 7.5 min) map

Trout Creek Butte, Oregon, USGS 24K Quad Topo (7.5 min x 7.5 min) map

Back Up Date:  In the event this climb is cancelled, June 9-10 (Sunday – Monday) will be offered as a back-up.


Contact: Bryon Snapp,    bryon.snapp@yahoo.com


                                          Middle Sister (L),  Hayden Glacier,  Prouty Point (R)

 


When:
Sunday, June 2, 2019 to Monday, June 3, 2019
Where:
Three Sisters Wilderness
OR  
Contact(s):
Bryon Snapp
503-304-8596 (p)
Category:
Climbing
Registration is not available online - contact the event coordinator
The trip leader is the event coordinator. The Trip Leader has the final say over who may participate in the event.