Middle Sister - Hayden Glacier, S1
Date: Sunday & Monday, June 2-3
Leader: Bryon Snapp (Leader) Cell: (503) 507-8327
Assistant: Frosty Gill
Proposed Route: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier & Prouty Point
Chemeketan Climb Classification: S1 (Snow/Level 1)
Elevation: 10,047 feet
Elevation Gain: ~ 4,750 feet
Hiking Distance: ~ 14.0 miles (round trip)
Driving distance: ~240 miles round trip.
Climb Description:
The Hayden glacier route is approached from the east side of the Sisters range. Sunday we’ll begin at the charred Pole Creek trailhead and hike south past North Sister. Eventually, we’ll find the “Climber’s Trail” junction where we’ll then head due west and rise above timberline and set our basecamp (~ 6000’) for the evening, possibly on snow. Snow conditions permitting, we will have running water within 100-yards, but be prepared to melt snow if necessary.
Early Monday morning, we’ll begin our hike to the Hayden Glacier where we might rope up as a team and gain the col located between Middle Sister to the south, and Prouty Point to the north. Once at the col, we’ll take a short break while a fixed-line is set (if necessary) on the steepest snow section on Middle Sister’s North shoulder. After climbing up the North shoulder, we’ll cruise to the summit as a team to hopefully enjoy the incredible views! Weather and time permitting, we’ll hang out; otherwise, we’ll quickly bail back to the col where we will take a few minutes to scramble to the top of Prouty Point (9,312’) before heading back down to our camp. Once back to camp, we’ll eat lunch and briskly break down our camp and return to Pole Creek.
Gear/equipment:
This will be a fun climb that requires basic rope management skills while traveling as a rope team on simple glaciated terrain. You will need the full complement of gear for glacier travel: ice ax, harness, helmet, crampons, carabiners, prusiks, etc.. A complete list of required climbing and camp equipment will be furnished as part of the climb prospectus.
Reference/Maps:
Oregon High, Jeff Thomas, page 100
https://www.summitpost.org/north-ridge-via-hayden-glacier/155622
Google Earth: UTM 10T 597219E, 4889036N
North Sister, Oregon, USGS 24K Quad Topo (7.5 min x 7.5 min) map
Trout Creek Butte, Oregon, USGS 24K Quad Topo (7.5 min x 7.5 min) map
Back Up Date: In the event this climb is cancelled, June 9-10 (Sunday – Monday) will be offered as a back-up.
Contact: Bryon Snapp, bryon.snapp@yahoo.com
Middle Sister (L), Hayden Glacier, Prouty Point (R)