Climb Prospectus
Middle Sister: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier and Pole Cr.
https://www.summitpost.org/middle-sister/150448
Date: Monday – Tuesday, July 4-5th, 2022.
Leader: Mike Buren 503-559-3003
steppebrother@gmail.com
Assistant: Jerry Croft , Jcroft457@gmail.com
Sponsoring Leader: Scott Phillips, climbingscott@comcast.net
Participants/Emergency contacts:
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Driving Directions: About 100 miles one-way. Approximately 3 hrs from Salem to the trailhead without stops. From Sisters, go west 1.4 miles on the old McKenzie Hwy 242 and turn south (left) on Pole Creek Road (Forest Road 15/1524), following signs to Pole Creek trailhead. Proceed south almost 11 miles to the parking area and trailhead. A Northwest Forest Pass will be needed to park. There is a vault toilet at the trailhead but no water so fill your water bottles prior. At about 4 miles into the hike we will stop to filter water from the creek so be prepared to carry plenty for a hot dusty hike till then.
Climbers may want to camp in the area the evening of the 3rd to be fresh for an early start the next morning. Depending on the elevation of the basecamp campsite, snow may need to be melted for drinking water. Assume open fires will not be allowed. Climbers are encouraged to buddy up to share tents and cookware to cut down on weight. Team gear including ropes and snow protection will be shared out to be carried at the trailhead.
Proposed Route: North Ridge/Hayden Glacier via Pole Creek Trailhead. Group permit for overnight trip is required and has been obtained by Leader.
Landmarks Data
Parking and start of hike: 5,300 ft
Eastside Trail Jct (96), take left: 1.4 miles in
Cross Soap Creek and take right
toward Chambers Lakes (96B): 5,680 ft @ 2 miles in
Climber’s trail Jct: 6,300 ft @ 4 miles in
Camp: up to 8,000 ft @ 6.5 miles in
Summit: 10,056 ft @ 8.5 miles in
Round trip total: 17 miles
Net Elevation gain: 4,756 ft
Itinerary
July 4th: Carpool(?) leaves the Salem Motor pool lot at 4:30 AM. Arrive trailhead about 7:30.
Gear up, pack team gear, sign liability waiver, say “hi”. 7:30 to 8.
Hike into camp. 8 to 3.
Make camp, dinner, prepare for summit day, make water, early to bed.
July 5th: Gear up/rope up/leave camp, by 5 AM
Summit at 9 AM
Return to camp 12 PM
Pack up camp, eat, prepare to leave, by 2 PM
Back at trailhead by 5 PM
Return to Salem by 8 PM (later with dinner stop)
Equipment:
- Ten essentials (map, compass, whistle, personal first-aid, food,
water, sunscreen, sunglasses, matches/candle/fire starter, headlamp)
- Two-days meals and snacks
- Mosquito repellent?
- Crampons/crampon compatible boots/helmet/Ice axe/harness/two prussic/four carabiners (one which is locking)/rappel device
- Gaiters are optional but will keep scree/dust/snow out of your socks
- Overnight gear: tent, sleeping bag, pad, clothing for two days (no cotton), toiletries, etc
- Three liters of water at start of climb
- Windproof/waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex)
- Gloves or mittens
- Pile or wool cap
- Sun hat or bandanna for prolonged protection
- Trekking poles are optional but make the climb less tiring
Comments:
First day hiking will be on dirt and then snow un-roped, about half of it through the old footprint of the Pole Creek Fire so expect little shade. Second day roped snow travel, possibly with crampons. Depending on conditions climbers may be “clipping-through” in a roped team on the upper snow field just below the summit.
Camping may occur near timberline near running water, or much higher above timberline with no running water. If proceeding to the high camp option, we can pause at running water for a chance to filter water if needed. Camping gear will be left at camp when we leave for the summit on the second day and retrieved on the way back down. Make sure tents are staked/tied down in case of wind.
If the weather is questionable, leader will make decision on whether to go or not on Sunday evening the 3rd. If you have any questions, please give Leader a call or send an email.
Emergency Contacts:
Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700 or Deschutes County Sheriff Office: 541-693-6911 / 541-388-6655
In-Town Contact: Kim Buren, 503-367-9586. Friends and family can contact to get updates on group if things don't go according to plan.