Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys M2
CLIMB IS FULL
Mt Shuksan resides near Mt Baker in the N. Cascades not far from the Canadian border and is one of the Chemeketan 18 Peaks. The Fisher Chimneys route is a step up from the standard route on the Sulphide Glacier. The route approaches from Lake Ann and passes through a wide variety of terrain including a 1000’ of 3rd/4th class rock in the chimneys, steep snow up Winnie’s Slide, glacier travel on the Upper Curtis Glacier, and eventually up Hell’s Highway which meets up with the standard route on the Sulphide Glacier before finally hitting the summit pinnacle where we will ascend more 3rd/4th class terrain. This route is notorious for parties getting caught on the mountain trying to come down after dark on a LONG summit day. If all goes well, expect a 12-15 hr summit day best case. Anyone applying needs to be in excellent shape and confident on exposed terrain.
CONTINGENCY: End of June is on the early side of the season for this climb. Though with the warm springs we have had the last few seasons, it could be a prime time to go. Given the complex nature of this route and finicky weather that far north, we will not go unless we have a good weather window and good conditions are expected. If we need to cancel, we will chase good weather and find something interesting to climb. As time approaches, I may consider shifting a day (Thur-Sat or Sat-Mon) if it means hitting a better weather window. Anyone who applies should plan on some level of flexibility.
APPLYING: Email me to apply. I will assess the applicants and pick the best team.
Time: 3 days
Driving Distance: 358 miles (one way)
Elevation Gain: 6750’
Team Size: 6
Required Skills: Comfort climbing 3rd/4th class rock and steep snow unroped, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, traveling on running belays, rappelling, excellent fitness and fortitude for a LONG summit day.
Fri: Early departure from Salem, hike into Lake Ann in the afternoon.
Sat: Early start to get to summit and back (expect a LONG day).
Sun: Depart camp back to car and drive home.
GOOD LINKS:
Mountaineers: https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/mt-shuksan-fisher-chimneys
SummitPost: https://www.summitpost.org/fisher-chimneys/155674
Maps/Tracks: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MVWWtyV0D6BLBZEau5eApdHYWzpl8yTU